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God preferred heavy infantry to translate from Alpinist Vol.16, Mountain Profile, The Matterhorn text/Herve Barmasse, Luca Maspes

Ridge Route

Like all mountain peaks, after completing the simplest routes, people began to have ideas and hope to climb from the more difficult route. After the initial fear of the mountain disappeared, they were eager to open up a new route on each ridge, on each side of the rock, in order to experience the excitement similar to that of the first.

In 1879, the 23-year-old Briton Albert Frederick Mummery and the Swiss guide Alexander Burgener met in Zermatt. Their team was considered It was one of the most powerful ropes in the Alps. On September 3, Mammeli, Begler, and two other guides, Augustin Gentinetta and Johan Petrus, took down the Zmutt ridge. . The ridges were surrounded by steep north and west walls and proved to be much harder than the earlier ones. Today, it still enjoys a high reputation.

In 1874, 18-year-old Albert Frederik Mammyli climbed the Matterhorn for the first time. Although he once thought that “my interest in mountaineering will end”, it still returned seven times. Here, it includes the 1879 Dentsmuth Ridge Route, a classic route now known as the Matterhorn.

In the following year, the "Marmel-Begler" combination was equipped with boots with a tack, and climbed to the starting point of the Lion's Head and southwestern ridge along a 60-degree ice channel on the western side of the mountain. Between mouths. In the same year, with the help of Benedikt Venezt, they also tried the route that was later called the Furggen Ridge. Blocked by the last few difficulties before the summit, they had to retire from the platform (Mamari platform) to the summit of Hornli.

The Fjord Ridge is the latest route to be resolved on the four sides of the Matterhorn, most likely due to the hanging rock near the summit. Wimble and his mentor tried this group of rocks when climbing along this route for the first time, but only Guido Rey held on without falling off. When he and Antoine Maquignaz climbed this route for the last time in 1899, he climbed up next to the hanging rock and climbed down to the top to lay down the rope ladder and explore it carefully—but just as he himself did. Afterwards admitted, "This is not a real summit." Two years later, on September 4, 1911, Mario Piacenza and his two guides Jean-Joseph Carrel and Joseph Gaspard ( Joseph Gaspard) was again hampered by the top of the hanging rock, this time they climbed to the shoulder of Fuggion, then pulled back south and re-entered the ridge. Until the Second World War, on 23 September 1942, Alfredo Perino and wizards Carrell and Giacomo Chiara finally completed their suspension. Rock straight on the route. The small Carre, who had made numerous attempts to climb at the Matterhorn, used his exquisite skills to pass through the difficulties. Eleven years later, young but sensible Walter Bonatti completed the first winter climb of the route. Today, the Fridge Ridge is still recognized as the most dangerous of the four major ridge routes on the Matterhorn.

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