The knot group, also known as knot rope, is a technique commonly used in mountaineering. The improper use of equipment or technical operation errors often leads to accidents. When passing through a sloping glacier, in order to prevent dark cracks, it should be grouped by 50 knots and four people, each holding two rounds of rope as a buffer reaction time. When you pass through dangerous locations (such as climbing or slanting slopes where you have large snow and ice), you can't get through because one person has slid, causing everyone to suffer. When China first climbed Gongga Mountain, three tragedies occurred at the same time.

If there is not enough time and ropes to build roads, use alternate protection methods to pass, the length of the rope is 30-50 meters is good, not too long, or lose the significance of protection. We can use ice pickets on the ice wall, but we can also use hail. When we climb the Bogda Peak, we almost always use long hailstones to break into the ice and hang the knot ropes on the hailstones to protect people from pressing hard on the hail. To prevent accidents, The protector completely separates itself from the hail (usually about 6 meters of rope about 1 meter on the ice, one for self-protection, and the other to prevent hail from falling off) so that once the protection fails, it will not be carried on.

When climbing a rock and ice-snow area (this area is the most difficult to climb in the mountains, because in a steep location, the snow can not stay, the rock naturally exposed), one is to use rock cones, and the other is to hang the rope in the On the outstanding rock, in order to save time, we used the second method to climb the 4700-5300m section of Bogda Peak. The rope cannot be long when climbing in rocky areas.

Through the ice storm area is very dangerous, most of the ice storm area is at the bottom of the valley, the snow on both sides of the mountains piled up and squeezed, forming a number of bright and dark cracks in the bottom of the valley, and the snow is soft, even if it is difficult to use a large snow cone safety Protective effects. In Bogda, me and a team member withdrew from 4,700 meters. As the weather is warming, the snow on the left side of the "V" valley melts. The ice wall is exposed. It is very dangerous to cut down the ice wall along the road. We only ventured to go back to the bottom of the ice storm. I alternately protected the descent with 30 meters of rope, put the rope on the hail, forced the hail into the snow, and protected the person from using the weight of the whole body to press on the hail (separate the hail from itself). The opener hung the ascent On the rope, walk along the rope, in order to play a protective role, the rope must remain tense.

When the protection passes, the surface of the rope and the teeth of the ascending device tend to freeze due to the change of the weather, and it is ineffective. Some of the major slides that we had at Bogda Peak were caused by the grabbing of the knot rope and the riser ice. Fortunately, we tied the knot at the end of the rope and stopped at the end of the rope. Danger. Therefore, it is the key to master knot rope technology.

A fast knot

In cases where the consequences of slipping may not be serious, climbers can use the quick knot method. For example, it is more appropriate to use this method when detecting elevation angles and cracks or standing on a hill to tie down a weaker teammate.

"Boots-Skull" knot rope method

It is both quick and easy to use the "boots and boots" knot rope method when the whole team advances together. Although it is still controversial, it has been proved by practice that this method is still useful, but it must be remembered that it cannot afford to carry a lot of force. If it slips badly, this method will not be reliable.

The following is the rope knot method; it seems to be troublesome, but it is easy to be proficient, and it can be done in a few seconds:

1, step on a small platform, the size can accommodate the first half of the ice boots and hail;
2. Insert the hailstone as deep as possible into the back of the platform, tilt the handle slightly to the top of the hill, and keep the tip perpendicular to the falling direction, so that the broom handle can be used to the maximum when falling down;
3, standing under the hail, the surface parallel to the climbing route, perpendicular to the direction of falling.
4. The foot of the mountain stepped into the snow, and resisted the handle to the side of the mountain, so that it was not pulled down to the mountain.
5, the bottom of the foot is also a step up, step on the stability, then keep the legs in the next straight, as a solid support.
6, the rope around the hail. Then move the rope from the direction of the force to the upper toe, and then pass around the hail to the side of the hill, and finally make a circle on the foot surface.
7, with the rope toward the bottom of the mountain, at the same time in the heel (mountain's foot) into the rope, forming a S-shaped. The hand holding the rope must not be separated from the rope.
8. The hand on the hill has two roles: grasping the hoe and supporting the handle; the following people are responsible for collecting the rope.

The climber must be skilled in using the "boot-and-snail" knot rope on both feet because the person in the tether must face in the direction of the fall. If the person in front of the rope slips off and the rope looses from the raft, the knot rope cannot be discussed.

Iron lock / hail knot rope method

The iron lock/hail knot knot rope method and the “boots and knots” knot rope method are quite safe, but the roping is more convenient. The first step is to plunge the hail into the snow as deeply as possible. The tip of the broom is perpendicular to the slide path. Make a knot on the broomstick (see the example) and hold the iron lock. Standing perpendicular to the slide path, the plane is parallel to the climbing route. The foot of the mountain stands against the hail and ties on the knot, but does not step on the hoop (don't step on the rope with a crampon). Starting from the direction of the force, the rope passes through the iron lock, around the waist, and finally is held in the hand on the mountain to act as a brake. The great advantage of this method is that the power of slipping can make the person who stands ropes stand firmer.

Second, the use of snow cone knot rope method

Other methods of knotting often use snow cones, such as anchors, tethered pegs, tie strings, and the like.

Sitting knot rope

This method is flexible and safe, especially suitable for hard snow or deep, thick, wet snow. The seated knot ropes are relatively cold and wet, and if the rope is frozen, this knotting method will have no effect. First, dig out or step out a "seat" and a "pedal" on the snow, and then put on a layer of relatively hard things, legs straight apart, and sit down the knot rope. This method uses snow cones.

Vertical knot rope

Vertical knot ropes are easier, as long as there are two grooves deep enough and safe to step on. However, its security has to be greatly reduced because people protected by tethers can easily be pulled down. The vertical cone must support the snow cone.

There are three ways to stand rope protection: facing the snow slope; facing away from the snow slope and standing sideways.

The station slope facing the snow slope is the most unfavorable. When the following person slips, the entire rope is tied to the protector and he cannot smoothly put the rope down. Stand out slightly better, the rope will not completely bind the person, and the protector can also see if the following person is likely to slip. But these two methods of standing have a weakness: the feet can not resist, it is easy to be pulled down. Therefore, the protector must tilt to the slope to prevent it from being pulled down the hill.

The safest stationing method is lateral and equal to the mountaineering route. Stand straight down to the foot of the mountain, knees can not be bent, stepped in a snow trough. The legs of the uphill, the legs of the downhill, and the direction in which they might slide down form a straight line. Hand braking to the foot of the mountain.

Mechanical knotting tools can also use mechanical tools when knotting on snow. Even if the rope is wet or frozen, these tools are easy to operate and install. With tools, you can knot ropes directly on the snow cone without rewinding around the seat belts, which makes people more comfortable. However, the use of tools to knot ropes tends to be less flexible, giving direct pressure on the snow cones and sometimes it is not safe enough.

Lifting Column

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